AH-64D TEDAC FOR DCS
Last updated: November 10th, 2023
Bill of materials
In this section I will post a list of materials used in this project. I will also post links to the items in Amazon and/or Aliexpress, from were I purchased most of my electronics. Purchase other parts or from other sources at your own risk.
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Printing material
I've used SUNLU PLA+ and an Ender 3 for all my 3D prints. This can be change based on personal preference. Just make sure that your printer has at least a 190x190 cm printing surface. The height is not as critical, as the main body is split in two pieces.
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Microcontroller
An ATmega32U4 microcontroller is required for Windows to recognize it as a gaming device. I've used a knock-off Arduino Pro Micro board. In my case, although it has a Pro Micro layout, it has an Arduino Leonardo bootloader. I've used these:
Ideally, you will also need a GPIO expansion board. The one I used is a PCF8575, as the arduino doesn't have that many pins to handle so many inputs.
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Display (optional if you only want to build this for VR)
The STL files are designed to fit an 8" LCD 4:3, model HJ080IA-01E. You can find one here:
Aliexpress (this one in particular included the control board, but not the power suply, that I bought separatedly).
The default ribbon cable is 150cm long, which is a bit of a tight fit. I strongly suggest you to buy a longer 50 pin ribbon cable.
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Buttons and switches
Rocker switches
There are two types of 3 position switches: return to center, and latching rocker switches. I've used the following:
4 x Return to center (3 pin SPDT MOM OF MOM)
Pushbuttons
For the push buttons, any 12mm button will do. This is just an example: Gebildet 24pcs 12mm Pulsador Momentaneo
Trigger assembly
The trigger assembly, should you choose to use my variant, which has a very nice two detent feel to it, requires 2 mini limit switches, and 2 6*6*4.3 pushbuttons.
4 position hat switches
There are two options for these switches, which I'll explain in the Build instructions. Basically, you can use 6*6*4.3 pushbuttons, which you'll need for the trigger anyway, or you can use RKJXT1F42001, which is a bit overkill and a bit more expensive, but already does that function. (WARNING: a bug has been detected, likely related to the use of the RKJXT1F42001 switch, so I plan on replacing it with a joystick controller)
Right cursor joystick
I've used an analog joystick, similar to what's used in portable consoles like PSP or 3DS.
Left cursor joystick
Although they look physically the same, they are indeed not the same (or at least are not modelled the same in DCS). While the right joystick is indeed an actuall joystick, the right joystick is actually a 4 position hat switch + a push button. For that reason, I've used one RKJXT1F42001, but you could also use a standard analog joystick, like the ones used in console controllers.
L/R and Zoom buttons
I've used 6*6*15 pushbuttons because I had them and I liked the feel and look of them, as they look exactly the same as they are designed in DCS. Also, they are low profile, and there's not much space in the area to place a standard 10mm diameter button.
Level and Gain potentiometers
2 x PT10 through hole pots (I think to recall mine are 10k Ohms, but it really doesn't matter much)
MPD rocker switches
MPD pushbuttons
9 x 12*12 green led pushbuttons
MPD DAY/NT/OFF switch
1 x 3 position rotary switch (2 pole 3)
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A bunch of M2 and M3 screws of different sizes, AWG 28 or 30 wire, solder, etc.